![]() ![]() Cement one at a time, bracing it into place and re-checking it periodically while the cement dries. Tip from the Chief: Make sure the 4x4s are level, square and plumb. We also later filled the space between the ground and deck with landscaping rocks in an effort to discourage field mice from burrowing in there and driving our dog bonkers. It could be a lot worse though, so I wouldn’t skip the step. The center cross bars are set upon a cement footer and everything is held in place with exterior wood screws.Įven though we spread a weed barrier, a persistent plant or two still manages its way between the slats. We used pressure-treated 4x4s for the posts and pressure-treated 2x4s for the frame. The posts are 10 feet tall with about 2 feet cemented into the ground, so there is about 8 feet above ground. The base and the top deck are 6 feet by 5 feet between the posts. (2) Swing-N-Slide extra-duty swing seats.(4) heavy-duty swing hangers (plus mounting hardware). ![]() (1) A-frame swing bracket or EZ frame bracket (plus mounting hardware).(26) pressure treated 5/8″ x 5 1/2″ x 6′ fence pickets.(25) pressure-treated 1″ x 6″ x 10′ deck boards.This listing also includes the additions we made to the original post. Please note this is a guide based on how we built our playset (and the size of our trailer, backyard, etc.) - please calculate and adjust accordingly. Based on a number of requests from that post, however, we culled frequently asked questions and calculated lumber to provide a resource for other DIYers out there. My intention when I originally wrote the post was to prove that building a playset could cost a lot less than buying one. We had a blast building it, but most importantly, our kids and their friends are having an even better time using it! Thank you for all the kind words and inquiries regarding our outdoor playset. ![]()
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